Odds are you know the 101 on Mizuna: It started as a vegetarian spot, then moved over to a full continental-style menu and was considered by many to be the best restaurant in Spokane. Then the beast known as inconsistency reared its ugly head, and a visit could involve anything from excellent soups to less than stellar gnocchi.
I'm not sure if the consistency issues truly are fixed once and for all, but things are looking up if our last visit is anything to go by.
The sturgeon, for example, was an excellent showcase on how to properly prepare a fish. Its natural flavors were not overpowered by a bunch of marinades or rubs, but lightly seasoned, paired with a nice pancetta hash and a crimini mushroom sauce. A good combination, not too overwhelming, just fresh and summer-y tasting.
The vegetarian special consisted of a orzo stuffed pasilla pepper. It wasn't bad either, though I felt flavors weren't distributed as well as they were with the sturgeon. Some bites were spicy, some were rather bland.
One could probably go back and forth discussing if Mizuna is as good today as it was during its hey-day, but two facts can not be argued:
As far as a vegetarian/vegan menu goes, Mizuna has a larger selection than most. It is a creative menu, and not simply an afterthought consisting of your standard portabello burger.
And the bar serves some of the best martinis in town.
After a few eh visits to Mizuna I feel that the old king might be getting ready to be back in the running for "best spot in town" again. That's a good thing for all of us.